The
municipality of Gaucín, bordered by the Rivers
Guadiaro and Genal, is characterised by dense plant cover.
In the upper elevations cork and evergreen oaks mix with
carob, chestnut, dwarf olive and pine trees, while the
stream banks abound with poplars, cottonwoods, ashes,
willows and elms along with orange, lemon, plum and quince
groves.
This
cursory list of species-there are many more-may give some
idea of the exuberant vegetation of this area, which also
exhibits a very varied terrain of vivid contrasts and
sprawling vistas.
The village stretches from east to west like an amphitheatre
from the foot of the Castillo del Águila (El Águila
castle) to the slopes of Mount Hacho, across elevations
that offer a perfect view of the sea and the roads that
head inland from the coast. The village of Gaucín,
which some romantic traveller called “Balcón de
la Serranía” (Balcony of the Highlands), is in
effect a watch tower affording views of the Sierra Crestellina
range, the Genal valley and, on clear days, the distant
lands of Jerez, Gibraltar and Africa.
Such
a setting did not go unnoticed by the Romans, who were
the first to settle here, as attested to by a number of
finds, including ruins of villages in Casas del Abrevadero
only a few kilometres from the modern village, traces
of the road that joined Gibraltar and Ronda and a statue
of the god Mercury. It was the Arabs, however, who founded
the locality and gave it the name it is known by today,
which in Arabic means “strong rock” and clearly alludes
to the impressive mass on which the castle sits.
Under Visigoth rule, Gaucín was called Belda, and
in the Byzantine era, it was under the jurisdiction of
the province of Oróspeda, whose borders are not
clear to us today. We know about the settlement of these
civilisations in Gaucín from the ruins of the Visigoth
or late Roman necropolis on the Enmedio hill, southwest
of the present village of Gaucín.
This
area’s years under the Crescent Moon were not precisely
tranquil, in spite of the fact that there were periods
of peaceful coexistence as a result of treaties between
the Moors and Christians. Because of its location, it
was involved in both the conflicts that sprang up on the
coast and in the interior. The most significant of all
the historical events that occurred in this place during
the Middle Ages was the death of Pérez de Guzmán,
better known as Guzmán El Bueno (The Good), who
died fighting the Arabs in the vicinity of the Castillo
del Águila on 17 September 1309.
The village passed into Christian hands for the final
time on 27 May 1485. The troops of the Catholic Monarchs,
under the command of the Marquise of Cádiz, entered
the village after its surrender had been demanded and
the inhabitants had submitted, from which it appears that
there was no fighting on that occasion.
In
the nineteenth century, Gaucín, like so many other
mountain villages, offered stiff resistance to the Napoleonic
troops but finally succumbed to the French pressure. On
8 July 1810, the village was sacked by the Napoleonic
forces, who not only slew a large number of people, but
also burned the municipal and parish archives. They even
hurled the image of the Santo Niño (Holy Child,
so venerated in Gaucín) from the walls of the castle.
Outstandings Visits:
The indispensable first step is a tour of the village,
which, as has been mentioned is the “Balcony of the Highlands”
due to the breadth of the landscape that can be viewed
from many places in it. This tour should be followed by
a visit to the Castillo del Águila, which was first
erected by the Romans and enlarged and strengthened by
the Arabs.
It sits on limestone rock on a 688-metre hill west of
Sierra Bermeja, and its east and south slopes are practically
impregnable. This architectural complex has an irregular
outline and is formed by three walled compounds. In the
first of these compounds, which covers the greatest area
and served as a refuge for the population, are the Santo
Niño hermitage and the old hospital, with only
a few ruins remaining of the latter structure. The powder
magazine, which blew up in 1848, was installed on the
other end, adjacent to the Torre de la Regente (Regent’s
Tower). The oldest water tank is in this area. The second
compound, of brick and masonry construction, has two tanks.
The third compound is probably from the Caliphal era (tenth
century), and here stands the Torre de la Reina (Tower
of the Queen).
The
San Sebastián church stands out in the village.
It was erected in 1487, shortly after this territory was
conquered by Christian troops. This church ranks fourteenth
in antiquity among those that are still preserved in the
province of Málaga. Various work projects have
been carried out on it during different eras, resulting
in a monumental appearance. While its exterior is simple,
the interior is richly adorned with altars and altarpieces,
and it also possesses a valuable collection of religious
gold artwork. It consists of three naves supported by
thick square pillars with attached columns. The barrel-vaulted
nave has a Mudéjar-style roof.
On the outskirts of the village, a Carmelite convent was
built in the eighteenth century over what used to be the
Vera Cruz hermitage. Since the expulsions by Mendizábal,
it has been put to several uses. The church is rectangular
with three naves separated by semicircular arches. At
the front of the building, there is a polygonal chapel
or sacristy covered by an octagonal vault.
The
Santo Niño hermitage, in the Castle, is from the
seventeenth century. Its exterior is masonry, with a small
atrium, and its interior is divided into two naves, one
of which is heavily laden with decorations. The other,
from the eighteenth century, has a “camarín”(small
chapel) dedicated to San Juan de Dios (Saint John of God).
There is another hermitage, the Adelfilla, of much more
recent construction (1960).
The Fuente de los Seis Caños (Fountain of the Six
Spouts) is one of the finest examples of secular architecture
in this locality. It was built of stone in 1628 in the
Andalusian baroque style. It consists of three very well-proportioned
bodies, and on its uppermost part is a closed pediment,
on the centre of which is a noble coat of arms profusely
decorated with a plant motif. In the village, there are
also a number of seventeenth and eighteenth century houses
of the nobility, with their respective coats of arms engraved
in stone, that are worth seeing.
How to Get There:
If you are coming from the Costa del Sol, turn off the
AP-7 or N-340 expressway at Manilva onto the A-377, which
leads straight to Gaucín. If the route is from
Ronda, at the exit of that town take the A-369 road, which
likewise leads to this locality.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 97.3 square kilometres
Population: about 1,800
What the natives are called: Gaucineños or Gaucinenses
Monuments: the El Aguila castle, San Sebastián
parish church, hermitages of Vera Cruz and Santo Niño,
Fuente de los Seis Caños (Fountain of the Six Spouts).
Geographical Location: in the Genal valley, in the southern
part of the Ronda region, 36 kilometres from that city
and 130 kilometres from the provincial capital. The village
is 630 metres above sea level and records an annual rainfall
of 1,340 litres per square metre. The average temperature
is 14.5º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza Guzmán El
Bueno, 23 (29480). Telephone: 952 510 000; Fax: 952 151
130