The
Sierra de Líbar range imposes its rugged and broken
terrain on the municipal territory of Benaoján,
with outstanding features being the peaks of La Ventana
and El Palo (both about 1.300 metres high), the River
Guadiaro, which winds among the mountains through some
places of extraordinary environmental interest, and the
Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema (Sierra Grazalema
Nature Park), a region where nature has held back none
of her gifts.
The
treeless limestone of the summits, contrasts with the
greenery of the evergreen oak forest that covers the mountain
range to halfway up its slopes. In such surroundings are
found landscapes that are not only strikingly beautiful
but are also the sites of the first dwellings of primitive
man, as in the cases of the La Cueva de la Pileta and
El Gato caves.
It is clear, then, that the sign of man in this region
dates back some 20,000 years and that civilisations nearer
to us in time also appeared in these lands, including
Phoenicians, Romans, and Visigoths. The documented history
of Benaoján, however, begins with the arrival of
the Arabs, as is the case with so many other villages
in Málaga.
Some
historians, basing their judgment on the prefix “ben”
which means “son of”, believe the name of the village,
Ben-Oján, means “sons of Oján”. Others believe
the meaning is “house of the baker”, deriving from the
Arab name Ibn Uyan. The first theory, however, seems more
probable than the second does. The Torre del Moro (Tower
of the Moor) in front of the railway station is the only
Arabic legacy that is preserved in the village. Its Christians
conquered the castle in 1485 after the villagers surrendered,
and it was later destroyed, as it was impossible to maintain
a garrison in it.
After embracing the new faith and being converted into
newly minted Christians or “Moriscos”, the residents of
Benaoján took part in the sixteenth century rebellion
and as a result once the uprising had been squashed they
were driven off their lands. From that time forward the
march of history in this village parallels that of many
others in the region, where the intricate terrain was
taken advantage of by nineteenth century bandits, and
later by the “maquis” (resistance).
Outstandings
Visits:
The seventeenth century Nuestra Señora del Rosario
church stands out in the simple urban district, where
traditional architecture predominates and unabashedly
shows its Moorish heritage. Improvements were made to
the church in the eighteenth century and again in the
nineteenth. The Gothic vault over the presbytery is the
only thing that remains from the original construction.
The façade has a semicircular arch with a pediment
next to the tower, which has two levels and an upper octagonal
one that houses the bells.The Cueva de la Pileta (La Pileta
Cave) is four kilometres from the urban centre and 700
metres above sea level. This enormous cavity was discovered
in 1905 by a local farm labourer named José Bullón
Lobato, who let the Englishman Verner in on the discovery.
In 1924 it was declared a Monumento Nacional de Arte Rupestre
(National Cave Art Monument). Palaeolithic, Neolithic
and Bronze Age remains have been found in its interior,
and some rooms have significant cave paintings.
The
most ancient paintings are sketches done with the hands
and belong to the Auriñaciense period (some 20,000
years ago), but the ones of the greatest artistic value
are from the Solutrense period. These are found in the
room called the Santuario (Sanctuary), where the picture
of a pregnant mare attracts the most attention, and in
the Pez (Fish) room.
Another of the great attractions of Benaoján is
located near the village railway station: the Cueva del
Gato (El Gato cave). It is of extraordinary geological
interest and is linked to the Cueva del Humilladero (El
Humilladero cave) by four kilometres of galleries through
which the River Gaduares flows. The latter cave is another
paradise for geologists.
How to Get There:
Benaoján is reached from the town of Ronda by the
A-376 road. A few kilometres from the city is the MA-556
turning, which passes by the railway station and leads
to the village. You can also turn off the A-376 onto the
MA-505, which leads to Montejaque and immediately afterwards
to Benaoján.

Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 31.9 square kilometres
Population: approximately 1,600
What the natives are called: Benaojanos
Monuments: the Nuestra Señora del Rosario church,
Cueva de la Pileta (La Pileta Cave), Cueva del Gato (El
Gato Cave)
Geographical Location: in the Sierra de Líbar range
(a region of the Ronda highlands), 17 kilometres from
Ronda and 136 from the capital of the province. The village
centre is 565 metres above sea level. Average annual rainfall
is 1,260 litres per square metre and the average annual
temperature is slightly more than 14.3º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza de San Marcos, 1
(29370). Telephone: 952 167 103; Fax: 952 167 337