THIS
IS THE SPA TOWN. BUT ITS RICHNESS LIES NOT ONLY THERE.
ITS NATURAL SURROUNDINGS, ITS HISTORICAL REMAINS, ITS
FIESTAS AND TRADITIONS AND ITS INTRINSIC INTERNAL PEACE
MAKE CARRATRACA ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING RURAL DESTINATIONS
IN THE PROVINCE OF MALAGA.
Across from the Alcaparain mountains,
to the northeast of the abrupt Ronda mountains, is Carratraca.
Its location, between mountains and the extensive Guadalhorce
Valley, has affected its history and its lifestyle. But
the main feature that has marked this town is the sulphur
water spring.
According
to oral tradition, very common in these surroundings,
the discovery of its curative properties was made by a
beggar called Juan "Camisón" (nightgown),
so called because he always wore a long nightgown with
which he hid and protected his ulcer-ridden body. Seemingly,
this good man arrived at a property situated beside the
spring to beg the charity of its inhabitants and he saw
that a shepherd was pouring this water over animals that
had skin ulcers. Some time later, he returned and saw
that the goats had healed. That was when he decided to
bathe in the waters and after several immersions, his
many skin lesions disappeared.
The spa was built in the 19th century; a beautiful neo-classical
building that at present is undergoing reforms.
In 1830 King Fernando VII ordered construction of a large
inn next to it so that he could stay with his retinue.
In 1855 the spa was enlarged, using land donated by the
Count and Countess of Teba, under the condition that a
private bath was to be reserved for them and for the emperor
of France Napoleon III.
The fame of the spring quickly spread throughout the country
and soon houses and inns sprang up, a bullring and even
three casinos. One of the most notable buildings from
that time is the Town Hall, popurlarly referred to as
the "Casa Arabe" it is a palace of neo-mudejar
style that belonged to Trinidad Grund. Such famous intellectuals
as Rilke, Lord Byron, Alexandre Dumas, Guatavo Doré,
Campoamor, Julio Romero de Torres or Vicente Alexandre
all stayed there at one time or another.
A new village with a remote
past
The origins of the town date back to the 19th century,
when it seceded from Casarabonela after the signing of
1821. According to documentation that was found, there
was only one house in this area, known as the Cortijo
de las Aguas Hediondas (Farm of the Stinking Waters).
However, the different baths found at the edge of the
spring, the tombs and ceramic remains found in different
areas of the village prove that it was inhabited in Roman
times, although for some unknown reason it was abandoned
and then mysteriously covered with thick holm oak groves.
The best proof of this are the copper and silver coins
found in the La Glorieta site, with the faces of Tiberius,
Claudius and Caesar, as well as the necropolis of Los
Maderos, close to the Las Cañas stream.
Other
remains, this time prehistorical, recently appeared in
a 40 metre deep chasm, among which are a Neolithic burial,
a cruciform painting and ceramic with grooved decorations.
Another of the interesting places within the Carratraca
town centre is its unique bullring. The design is polygonal
and it is carved in the rock itself of Sierra Blanquilla.
In spring, the bullring becomes a miniature Jerusalem
over Easter thanks to the villagers. The passion and death
of Jesus is represented there, by more than one hundred
actors all of them inhabitants of the town. Carratraca
is a therapeutic village. Its tranquillity and customs
emanate like a spring from each of its houses, bars and
plazas, exercising a curative spell over the visitor that
stop there. 
Basic data
Size: 21 Km²
Population: 860
Residents known as: Carratraqueños
Monuments: Town Hall, Plaza de Toros, Spa, Church of Nuestra
Señora de La Salud
Geographical situation: In the Guadalteba area, at the
northern limits with the Guadalhorce Valley, 65 kilometres
from Malaga at 540 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Glorieta, 2. 29551.
Phone: 952 458 016 Fax: 952 458 276
Places to be visited
Town Hall
The Town Hall building is situated in the north-east of
the town, in calle de la Glorieta, which is between the
Spa and the Plaza de Toros. It is known locally as the
Arab House, for its Mudejar style, although it dates from
no further back than 1885, when Doña Trinidad Grund
de Heredia had it built. It was originally a second home
for her and her upper-class Malaga family. It has a tower
integrated into the building that leads on to a garden
area. The tower fell down in 1963, and the building was
restored in 1991, a new tower being built and the gardens
being restored. The ground floor is now devoted to exhibitions
and the Town Hall has the middle floor, while the third
floor is offices and store-rooms.
Plaza de Toros
The bullring is situated to the north-east of the town,
on the side of the Sierra Blanquilla or Baños,
the easiest access to it being by calle de la Glorieta.
Before it was built in 1878, bull-fights were held in
the town’s main plaza, but with the large influx of visitors
to the Spa and the town itself, this was considered dangerous
and a proper bullring was built. It holds 3,000 spectators,
and has surprisingly effective acoustics. Many famous
bullfighters have performed there, and in our own day
it is the scene of minor bullfights during the August
Feria. It is also used to host festival events like the
"Embrujo de Luna Mora" (Bewitchment of the Moorish
Moon) and the theatrical representation of the Passion
of Christ during the Holy Week celebrations.
Tourist Routes
The improvement in roads in the area allows us easy access
to neighbouring towns like Pizarra, from where we can
continue on to Casarabonela. Another route, the Ruta de
los Pantanos, takes us to Ardales and Álora, where
we can see the splendour of the lakes and many monuments
of great artistic and historic interest.
FIESTAS
One of the most traditional festivals in Carratraca is
the Passion and Death of Christ, in which more than 100
people from the town act. It takes place in the bullring
on Good Friday and Easter Saturday, at five in the afternoon.
The Corpus Christi festival is also very popular, with
the streets and houses of the town decorated in flowers
and aromatic herbs in preparation for the procession through
the town centre. A recently recuperated tradition is the
Night of San Juan, at the end of June, when a huge bonfire
is built. The August feria takes place around the Day
of the patron saint, Nuestra Señora de la Salud,
on August 15th.
GASTRONOMY
The most typical dishes in Carratraca are the soups and
stews like callos (pigs’ trotters and snouts), the cabbage
dishes and the delicious rabbit dishes. In summertime
the people of the place like to eat something lighter
like omelettes with bread crumbs and parsley, garlic and
eggs, and potatoes and almond. The tarts cooked in olive
oil and sponge cake are very good here too. 