The
Los Alcornocales (170,000 hectares) and Sierra de Grazalema
(50,000 hectares) Nature Parks converge in the municipality
of Cortes de la Frontera, which contains a large part
of their extraordinary environmental treasure and affords
the visitor a view of scenic surroundings that are absolutely
awe-inspiring.
The
large forests of cork oaks that cover much of this territory
continue into the province of Cádiz, but before
crossing the border of Málaga they form a number
of sites that can, without gratuitous hyperbole, be characterised
as paradisiacal.
La Sauceda and the Las Buitreras gorge, adjoining the
El Colmenar neighbourhood, are only two examples of the
bounty that nature has bestowed upon this municipality.
The first site is fully equipped for camping and taking
however much time one wishes to enjoy the surroundings,
while the latter-Las Buitreras-is more difficult of access
but compensates for this with an astonishing spectacle:
the channel of the River Guadiaro confined between walls
more than 100 metres high.
It
seems that the origins of Cortes de la Frontera date back
to the twelfth and eleventh centuries B. C., when the
Phoenicians arrived in this area where the Tartessians
were already established. Centuries later the Greeks made
their appearance, which can be described as fleeting,
as it generally was on the coasts of Andalusia. After
the Greeks came the Romans, from whose era sufficient
evidence remains: the traces of the town of Saepona 28
kilometres from the present village and the ruins of Cortes
el Viejo (Old Cortes), only two kilometres from the village
in a setting that overlooks a long stretch of the River
Guadiaro.
The Muslims confronted the Visigoths on Cortesano soil
in the year 711 in a place that is still recognizable
today, according to a number of researchers. At the death
of Almanzor in 1002, Cortes belonged alternately to the
kingdoms of Seville and Granada and even to the kingdoms
of Ronda and Algeciras. Fernando III the Saint conquered
the village in 1248 but it later again passed into the
hands of the Muslims until the Marquise of Cádiz,
Rodrigo Ponce de León, took it in the name of the
Catholic Monarchs in 1485. This kind of alternation between
one kingdom and another was not unusual with villages
that had “de la Frontera” (“of the Frontier”) as part
of their names.
The
modern location of the village is more recent, having
its origin in the seventeenth century. It was in that
period that cork exploitation, one of the locality’s main
sources of wealth, began to develop. It continues to be
one of the pillars of the economy of Cortes de la Frontera.
Due to the era in which the village was founded its urban
structure is noticeably different from that of many mountain
localities that have a Moorish heritage. The municipality
is also unusual in having three centres of population,
which it is not unique in the province of Málaga
but is nevertheless not common. They are: the main population
centre, which is Cortes de la Frontera itself, El Colmenar
and La Cañada or Estación de Cortes.
Outstandings
Visits:
Contrary to the case of other villages whose populations
do not exceed 10,000, in which the parish church stands
as the most representative local monument, in the case
of Cortes the Casa Consistorial or Town Hall is the most
important structure. Carlos III ordered its construction
in 1784. The building displays a neoclassic façade
that is notable for ten arcades distributed over two stories
that are crowned by a large pediment, in the centre of
which is the clock and the royal coat of arms. The humble
construction materials-cut sandstone-do not detract in
the slightest from the building’s architectural elegance.
The Nuestra Señora del Rosario church in the centre
of the village dates from the late eighteenth century
and is divided into three naves separated by semicircular
arches. The central nave has a barrel vault, and a dome
with a lantern covers the transept. Outside are two stone
façades with lintels and the bell tower, which
is located next to the front of the church.
The Casa de los Valdenebros (Los Valdenebros house), also
known as the Casa de las Tetitas (Las Tetitas house),
has a beautiful stone façade dated 1763 which displays
the coat of arms of its former owner, a soldier who received
a noble title. The mansion still has a subterranean passage
that connects with the old Valdenebros chapel, which has
a façade somewhere between baroque and Mudéjar
that was built in 1760.
The Plaza de Toros (Bullring) was inaugurated in 1894
and restored in 1921. It is, with its ring of almost 30
metres across, the largest bullring in the Highlands except
for that of Ronda, of course. The question of why a small
village has such a large bullring is explained by the
intensive livestock industry in Cortes.
The
Casa de Piedra dates from the sixth and seventh centuries.
As its name (Stone House) indicates, it was built by the
primitive method of excavating into a huge rock, making
the manual labour performed on it truly remarkable. On
the other hand the thirteenth century Torre del Paso (El
Paso tower) was erected to watch over the Gaucín-Ubrique
road through the El Espino pass. It is a simple watchtower
of functional construction.
How to Get There:
Starting from the AP-7 (N-340) expressway on the Costa
del Sol, take the A-377 from Manilva to Gaucín,
and there continue by way of the A-369. About seven kilometres
farther along turn onto the A-373, which leads to Cortes.
If you leave from the city of Ronda, you must go south
on the A-369, and after passing Algatocín take
the A-373.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 173.6 square kilometres
Population: about 3,500
What the natives are called: Cortesanos
Monuments: the Casa Consistorial (Town Hall), Nuestra
Señora del Rosario church, Casa de los Valdenebros
(Los Valdenebros house), Plaza de Toros (Bullring) and
the Casa de Piedra (Stone House).
Geographical Location: in the Ronda highlands in the westernmost
part of the province of Málaga, bordering on the
province of Cádiz. The village is 600 metres above
sea level. It is 40 kilometres from Ronda, 20 from Benaoján
and 159 from the provincial capital. The average rainfall
is plentiful (1,160 litres per square metre) and the average
temperature is slightly more than 16º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza Carlos III, 1 (29380).
Telephone: 952 154 000; Fax: 952 154 342