The
south slope of the Almijara mountain range takes up a
large part of the municipality of Frigiliana and its topography
is complex and rich in contrasts, with peaks that, without
reaching the heights of that mountain mass, do easily
exceed 1,000 metres, such as Sierra de Enmedio (1,164
metres), or that are close to that height as in the case
of El Fuerte (976 metres).
The
River Chillar marks the boundary of this municipality
and that of Nerja, and its tributary the Higuerón
provides, with its so-called Hoces del Río Higuerón
(Gorges of the River Higuerón), one of the most
striking natural sites in the entire area. It, and the
cliffs and gorges of the River Chillar itself, form an
incomparably scenic landscape. The terraced market gardens
that, at the village, begin their descent toward the coast,
between the dazzling white of the houses and the blue
Mediterranean in the background, are another feature of
an area whose image will remain engraved in the traveller’s
memory for a very long time.
Travellers coming to Frigiliana for the first time will
probably have a preconceived idea about the village, since
many different clichés have been used to describe
it. In fact, these same clichés could describe
any of the typical Andalusian mountain villages that look
out over the sea. In this case, however, all the clichés
are true. and are even surpassed by an ineffable sensation
that is as hard to describe as it is easy to perceive
and that perhaps no one can accurately identify unless
by resorting to another cliché: bewitchment.
Clichés
aside, the historic quarter of Frigiliana, of all those
in the entire province, is considered to be one that has
best preserved its original Moorish form. Its anarchic
street plan-anarchic from the twenty-first century perspective-leads
the visitor from one surprise to another: unexpectedly
massive architecture, streets, alleys, covered passageways,
stairways, plants and flowers in the most unlikely places,
a mixture of fragrances from hidden sources, ancient history
in new whitewash… And once you leave the intimacy and
constriction of its streets, the breadth of a superb landscape
above the Eastern Costa del Sol.
Remains found in 1987 in the Cueva de los Murciélagos
(The Bat cave) attest to the presence of man in this territory
from the late Neolithic period (3,000 B. C.) until the
Calcolithic or Copper Age (2.000 B. C.). There is a menhir
(standing stone) from the late Algar culture that provides
evidence that man was present in this area in that era,
and very near the village is the Cerrillo de las Sombras
necropolis from the Phoenician epoch (700-600 B. C.).
The
Romans occupied this territory in 206 B.C. through treaties
with the native population and, Frigiliana was included
in the Conventus de Gades. The name of the village comes
from the Romans. It derives from Frexinius (a personage
about whom nothing is known) and the suffix “ana”, which
means source, that is to say the place or villa of Frexinius.
Little is known about the history of Frigiliana from the
arrival of the Arabs to the Peninsula in 711 A. D. until
the late ninth century, when the fortress was built, except
that it was under the leadership of Omar Ben Hafsun. During
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, it formed part
of the Nazarite Kingdom. The village surrendered to the
Christian troops in 1485 without bloodshed.
Bit by bit, however, the Moors were stripped of the few
rights that they had (they farmed the worst soil and were
forbidden to speak and write their language or wear their
traditional dress) until the Moorish rebellion broke out
in the Alpujarras mountains and was brutally put down
by the Christians. The Moors from La Axarquía and
the Málaga mountains, expecting the aid promised
by Aben Humeya from the Alpujarras and also aid from North
Africa, sought refuge in El Fuerte de Frigiliana (the
Fort of Frigiliana), where some 7,000 of them gathered.
On
28 May 1569, the corregidor (magistrate) of Vélez
began the first assault with the ominous outcome of 20
dead and 150 wounded among the Christian troops. At that
time, 25 galleys of the Italian fleet were sailing in
the Mediterranean and the corregidor of Vélez asked
for assistance in squashing the Frigiliana insurgents.
On this occasion, it was 6,000 men who confronted the
Moors, who were defeated despite their resistance on 11
June 1569. There were 2,000 killed and 3,000 captives
among the defeated forces (some 2,000 escaped) and 400
dead and 800 wounded among the victors.
The Battle of El Peñón de Frigiliana has
been reproduced by Amparo Ruiz de Luna, somewhat in the
manner if a “romance de ciego” ballad, on glazed ceramic
panels that can be seen at the present time in various
places in the village.
From
that date until the nineteenth century, misfortune rained
down upon Frigiliana. When it was not the plague that
decimated the population, it was a storm that destroyed
the crops, or an earthquake, or the phylloxera pest that
attacked the grapevines or an outbreak of yellow fever
that caused havoc. It would not be until the arrival of
tourism that Frigiliana, like the rest of the Costa del
Sol, entered into a period of prosperity and social and
economic peace.
Outstandings Visits:
The village’s historic quarter, as has been said, is an
aesthetic gift that no visitor should decline. Perhaps
the heavy tourist traffic, especially during the high
season (July, August and September), slightly dilutes
this village’s many unique characteristics but that is
the price that must be paid when large crowds of tourists
gather at a particular place. Don’t think, for that reason,
that the village is just a display window directed at
the tourist trade; it is a living community that happens
to share its idiosyncrasies with people from all over
the world but that admirably preserves its cultural and
historical treasures for whoever goes to the trouble of
discovering them.
The iglesia de San Antonio (San Antonio church) is the
main religious structure in Frigiliana. It was erected
in the seventeenth century and modified in the eighteenth.
Its interior has three naves separated by pilasters and
covered by a wooden roof. The height of the transept is
increased by means of a dome with lantern. The church
houses a painted wooden carving of San Antón from
the eighteenth century. The exterior displays a simple
brick façade with a semicircular arch and a three-level
bell tower.
The
former silo of the antiguos pósitos (ancient granaries)
is an eighteenth century building in the historic quarter.
Nowadays, it is occupied by private dwellings and, only
the arcades of the main façade remain from the
ancient structure. The Palacio de los condes de Frigiliana
(Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana) is a large old house
from the sixteenth century, that was later converted into
a sugar mill. It is in the Renaissance style and covers
2,000 square metres. The building stones of its façade
came from the destroyed Arabic castle in the locality.
(On the subject of the sugar mill, it should be remembered
that this part of La Axarquía based its economy
for many years on sugarcane but that crop has now been
partly replaced by tropical fruits. The mill was the place
where the sugarcane was converted into a product for immediate
consumption).
The ermita del Ecce Homo (Ecce Homo hermitage), also known
as the hermitage of El Santo Cristo de la Caña
(Holy Christ of the Sugarcane) dates from the eighteenth
century. It is a very simple single-nave structure that
is entered through an atrium with a semicircular arch.
Part of the walls of the ninth century Castillo de Lizar
(Lizar castle) still stand in the upper part of the village.
The fortress’ entrance ramp can also still be seen. The
Palacio del Apero (Apero Palace, from the seventeenth
century) was connected to the sugar mill, but its original
function was to serve as a granary, horse stables and
storehouse for farm tools. It has a rectangular floor
plan and its rooms are distributed around an interior
courtyard. It houses the Museo Arqueológico (Archaeological
Museum), which displays, among other items, a series of
Iberian-Phoenician tombs.
The aforementioned menhir or standing stone is the most
important of the archaeological sites that have been discovered
in Frigiliana. It is from the Algar culture (1,500 B.C.)
and is in the Mudéjar neighbourhood. The Phoenician
necropolis is at Cerrillo de las Sombras.
How
to Get There:
Take the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7; N-340) towards
Motril and shortly before Nerja turn onto the MA-105,
which leads straight to Frigiliana.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 40 square kilometres
Population: about 2,300
What the natives are called: Frigilianenses. Nickname:
Aguanosos
Monuments: the San Antonio church, former granary, Palacio
de los Condes de Frigiliana (Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana),
Ecce Homo hermitage, walls of the Castillo de Lizar (Lizar
castle), Palacio del Apero (El Apero palace), Algar culture
menhir (standing stone), and the Phoenician necropolis
Geographical Location: in the eastern part La Axarquía,
in the foothills of the Almijara mountain range. The village
is more than 430 metres above sea level. It is 56 kilometres
from the provincial capital and only 6 from Nerja. The
area records an average annual rainfall of about 600 litres
per square metre and the average temperature is 18º
C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Real, 80 (29788).
Telephone: 952 533 002; Fax: 952 533 434