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IN
THE HEART OF THE GENAL VALLEY, IN THE RONDA MOUNTAINS, GENALGUACIL
WELCOME THE VISITOR TO UNIQUE SURROUNDINGS WHERE THE TRADITIONS
OF THE WHITE VILLAGES ARE FUSED WITH THE MOST CONTEMPORARY
OF THE ART WORLD AND THE MOST PECULIAR OF THE NATURAL WORLD.
Genalguacil is not just another village.
It's true that its lattice-work maze of steeply-sloping
streets and alleys with snow-white frontages, testimony
to its Moorish origin, and its position right in the valley,
like a balcony giving onto the natural world, are not unique.
This doesn't distinguish it from any of the other villages
in the area. Its little squares and balconies overflow with
flowers and its inhabitants lead peaceful, silent lives
that are historically and economically dependent on the
extraction of cork. But neither is this heritage exclusive
to Genalguacil.
 What
makes it different, original, is that this little mountain
village, which still maintains the traditional uses and
customs of yesteryear, turned several years ago into an
outdoor museum, home to an array of sculptures belonging
to artists of the five continents. The figures in stone,
iron, wood and clay surprises the visitor in the most unlikely
of places. The most innovative and vanguardiste art cohabits
here with the potted geraniums, reed chairs and grass hats,
the most typically Andaluz. But we'd better start at the
beginning. 
Origins:
Within its local boundaries, in the so-called Reales Chicos,
handmills have been found that were made by the Phoenician
and Hellenic cultures. There were once rich gold and silver
mines here, today exhausted. These handmills were used to
crush precious metals so that they could subsequently be
purified.
Its name comes from the Arabic Genna- Alwacir meaning "Gardens
of the Vizier". After the arrival of the Reyes Católicos
(Catholic kings), the Moslem population remaided in the
village a bloody rebellion in the mid 16th century ended
this peaceful coexistence. This uprising is a milestone
in Genalguacil's history, worthy of mention, not only for
the repercussions it had, bur also for the atrocities committed.
According to chroniclers, five hundred soldiers were sent
at that time to clear the Sierra Bermeja (mountains) of
people. Some of them sacked villages and took slaves, incurring
the wrath of the Moors who came down from the mountains
to defend their women and children.
The Arab rebels laid siege to the ancient church of San
Pedro Mártir de Verona where the leader of the militia,
Pedro Bermúdez, had left some of his men inside to
look after the Moorish women, children and old people. The
Moors go out those who had been imprisoned within and set
fire to it with the soldiers inside, giving them no chance
of rescue. After the expulsion of the Moslems, Genalcuacil
was repopulated with Christians from nearby areas. As late
as 1856, the village was made part of the Duque de Arcos's
estate, until a law took away this medieval privilege.
Sculptural
streets:
Bring together a heterogeneous group of artists and give
an evocative climate, surround them with nature, though
inserting them into a small, close-knit community. Give
them materials; enable them to exchange ideas and opinions
and let creativity and coexistence do the rest.
 And
afterwards, when the works have taken shape and form, leave
them there, so that they end up forming part of that place,
of its streets, its squares, its countryside, its memories
and those that live there. Since the idea was firts realised
in 1994, many artists have used the magic formula of Genalcuacil.
This white village is already a museum with its own array
of art works and is an example of how art, nature and the
day to day life of a small community can be linked.
In the heart
of nature:
Set in the midle of the Genal Valley, a stone's throw from
the sea and one of the highest mountains in the Ronda mountains,
the woods of Genalguacil are of enormous value and beauty,
populated by chestnuts, corks and pines, including the Blue
Spanish Fir, a botanic relic that is found nowhere else
in the world.
In its immediate vicinity is a wide network of paths and
tracks that lead through totally unspoilt countryside below
high mountain scenary. These paths are ideal for excursions
on foot or bike which can be complemented, in summer, with
a dip in the crystal-clear and clean water of the rivers
Almachar and Genal.
 Useful
information
Access: From
the Costa del Sol, starting from Estepona, you come across
the road that leads here and which passes through Peñas
Blancas and Jubrique on the way.
The distance is some 40 kms.
Basic data:
Size: 31,60 Km²
Population: Approx. 600
Residents known as: Genalguacileños
Monuments: Parish Church, Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja,
ancient mines, Museum of Los Encuentros de Arte (Art Biennale)
in the Genal Valley.
Geographical situation: In the lower Genal Valley region
of the Ronda Mountains, 158 kilometres from Malaga and 45
from Ronda, at 517 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/. Real, 3. 29492.
Phone: 952 152 003 Fax: 952 152 129
Places to
be visited
Art Biennale: Since 1994, an
art biennale has been taking place in Genalguacil every
two years during the first fortnight in August, attracting
artists from all over Spain and Europe to this spot for
two weeks of painting, sculpting and the creative exchange
of ideas. They are put up by the Town hall and have all
their materials paid for, along with a catalogue being published,
and the resulting works of art become the property of the
town itself. All aspects of art are included in the programme,
with sculptures in wood, metal and ceramics, and murals
and photography forming part of what becomes the town’s
permanent collection. Many of the works are out in the open,
as planned, while others are housed in Town Hall property
until work on the old oil press, to become the new municipal
museum, has been finished.
Urban Centre: Genalguacil is
a typical small mountain village whose only ancient work
of architecture is its church, dating from the 17th century
and built in honour of St. Peter of Verona (San Pedro de
Verona). Its interior is divided into three naves, separated
by semicircular arches supported by columns and covered
in a timber ceiling. On the outside, its most interesting
element is the octagonal-based tower.
Trekking: The countryside surrounding
the village is quite beautiful and ecologically important,
and the best way to get to know it is to walk. Of particular
interest to nature lovers is the Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja
area, where one can see the rare pinsapo trees - a species
of Mediterranean pine – and animals and birds like the mountain
deer and the various species of hawks and eagles. Interesting
too is the area known as Los Morterestes, situated in the
middle of a pinsapo woods where the first settlers here
mined gold.
FIESTAS
One of the most traditional festivals in Genalguacil is
the Festival of the Castaña, the toasted chestnuts,
which takes place in the month of November. There are also
many different events taking place during the Encuentros
de Arte del Valle del Genal, such as theatrical and musical
performances and competitions. Of a more religious character
are the Carnival in February, the Huerto del Niño,
the Holy Week celebrations and the festival in honour of
the patron saint, San Pedro Mártir de Verona, which
takes place on April 29th. A special 24 hours of sport is
held in August, in which most of the young people from the
village participate
GASTRONOMY AND CRAFTWORK
Among the culinary delights of Genalguacil are the broths,
the tomato soup, the hot gazpacho, the mushroom omelettes
and the delicious pork dishes. Many excellent pastries are
made here too, most of them by the people of the village
themselves, using local produce. |
