The
diversity of the province of Málaga is to be seen
not only in its rugged topography, which creates the most
varied landscapes, but also in the sizes of its municipalities.
Thus, along with municipalities with large areas such
as Antequera, which with its 810 square kilometres is
the fourth largest in Spain, there are others of less
than ten square kilometres, such as Totalán, Archez,
Algarrobo and the case in point, Iznate, with 7.5 square
kilometres. Even with these tiny dimensions, however,
this is still not the smallest municipality in the province
of Málaga.
The
scant geographic area of a municipality, however, does
not imply a scarcity of scenic resources, at least not
in the case of Iznate. Its territory is adorned mainly
with vineyards and olive and almond trees, a palette of
different shades of green that stand out from an ochre-coloured
terrain creased by the river that bears the name of the
village, and on whose banks a few orchards and gardens
are to be seen. Definitely a typical Axarquian landscape.
There is no indication that this area was populated before
the arrival of the Arabs to the Iberian Peninsular, and
there are features, for example the name of the place,
supporting the belief that the village had its origin
in the Muslim era. In the opinion of experts, the name
comes from “hisnat”, which can be translated as “castle”
or “castles”.
There
are those who say that the famous leader Omar Ben Hafsun,
who aroused so much attention in the time of the Caliphate
of Córdoba, was born in Iznate. Others, however,
believe that the birthplace of that personage was Parauta,
in the Ronda highlands. So far, there is nothing more
than conjecture either way.
An unusual historical characteristic of this village is
that it enjoyed the privilege of “behetría”, by
which the villagers had the right to elect whomever they
wished as their lord, so the obligatory service that they
had to render years later to a Christian lord must have
rankled them greatly.
It is known that the village surrendered to the troops
of the Catholic Monarchs at the same time as Vélez
Málaga, in 1487, and that for a time the population
continued to be mainly Moorish. The abuses by the Christian
rulers sowed the seeds of the Moorish rebellion of 1569,
a cause which the residents of this village emphatically
embraced and for which they were severely punished. The
village stood practically deserted until 1574, when Felipe
II sent the academician Peláez to Iznate to divide
the lands among the Christians, who came mainly from Antequera
and Estepa.
Chronicles
relate that in the late sixteenth century Iznate was known
as one of the villages that produced the most grapes,
a product that was even ordered by certain merchants in
the Spanish capital, who preferred its grapes to those
from other places. As is well known, the phylloxera pest
put an end to this thriving business in the nineteenth
century.
Outstandings Visits:
Iznate’s urban plan is purely Moorish, with streets and
alleys that narrow and widen (but not by much), with unsuspected
secluded corners tucked away here and there and steep
gradients adapted to the uneven terrain, which levels
out on the main square where the Town Hall and parish
church are located.
The church was dedicated to Saint Gregory VII and is the
most important structure in the village. It was built
in the sixteenth century and reconstructed after the Moorish
rebellion; it was restored in the twentieth century. It
is a simple structure consisting of a single nave with
a wooden roof of modest dimensions (25 metres long by
7 metres wide), and its three chapels house a number of
works of indisputable artistic value, including a Saint
Francis from the seventeenth century that is attributed
to Zurbarán and a polychrome wooden Inmaculada
(Mary Immaculate), also from the seventeenth century.
How
to Get There:
If you are coming from the Costa del Sol, take the Mediterranean
Expressway A-7 (N-340) from Málaga in the direction
of Motril. About 20 kilometres short of Vélez Málaga
follow the signs towards Cajiz and get onto the MA-177,
which will take you to Iznate. If you are coming from
Vélez Málaga take the A-335 and after just
two kilometres turn onto the MA-135 and go to Benamocarra.
From that village continue on the MA-136 to Iznate.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 7.5 kilometres
Population: about 850
What the natives are called: Iznateños
Monuments: the San Gregorio VII church
Geographical Location: in the interior of the La Axarquía
region, 14 kilometres from Vélez Málaga
and 30 from the provincial capital. The village is a little
more than 300 metres above sea level. The average annual
rainfall in the municipality is 530 litres per square
metre and the average temperature is 17.6ºC.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Vélez, 20
(29792). Telephone: 952 509 776; Fax: 952 509 798