The
municipality of Júzcar is a long and narrow strip
of territory that adjoins the municipality of Ronda to
the north, and in the south descends to Estepona and Benahavís.
Its elongated shape allows for an enormous variety of
scenery formed by very high peaks (Benamahoma, El Castillejo,
Jardón and Jarastepar, the last of these being
the highest in the area at 1,425 metres), areas with quintessentially
Mediterranean vegetation, and last of all, dense and unusually
lush pine forests.
Although
the historical origin of this village is very uncertain
it is clear it was founded before the time of the Arabs,
and some link its origin to the mining activity of the
Roman era. Be that as it may, the locality fell into the
hands of the Christian troops in 1485. From that date,
forward the Moors were subjected to very strict rules
and, as is well known, ultimately rebelled in 1570, resulting
in their expulsion in 1609.
A very unusual personality, “El Tajarillo” entered the
scene in that era. A sort of forerunner of the nineteenth
century bandit, he refused to be driven out. He fled to
the highlands and perpetrated incessant acts of banditry
as long as he could. All that remains of him is his legend
and a place called Paso de Tarajillo (Tarajillo’s Pass),
near a hut where it is said he died in an accident.
Due
to its location in the Upper Genal area and its difficult
access from the exterior it doesn’t seem very logical
that Júzcar would have been industrialised before
many other Spanish cities, but such was the case. In 1726,
construction began on the first sheet tin factory in Spain,
which began operations in 1731 with no fewer than 200
workers on the payroll. The factory was inaugurated with
the pompous name of “La nunca vista en España Real
Fábrica de Hojalata y sus adherentes, reinando
los siempre invictos monarcas y Católicos Reyes
don Felipe V y doña Isabel de Farnesio” (The Never-Before-Seen
in Spain Royal Factory For the Manufacture of Tin Sheeting
and its By-Products, in the Reign of the Unvanquished
Catholic Monarchs Don Felipe V and Doña Isabel
de Farnesio.)
It is documented that since, at that time, the process
for manufacturing tin sheeting was not known in Spain
some 30 specialists from Germany, under the direction
of the Swiss engineers Pedro Mentón and Emérito
Dupasquier, came to the village. It is said-and this should
be considered anecdotal- that these engineers had to be
smuggled out of their own country in barrels since in
order to prevent competition they were prohibited from
going abroad. Apparently, the factory ceased operations
during the War of Independence, and the General Archives
of Simancas preserves part of the first piece of tin sheeting
produced.
The
fact that in 1752 there were eight mill units in operation-and
continued operating until 1841-along with two tanneries
attests to the prosperity of Júzcar in the eighteenth
century. It is therefore not surprising that in this area
there are the ruins of six other villages, of whose abandonment
there are no reliable records. It is known, however, that
Faraján was administratively subordinate to Júzcar
until 1873.
Outstandings Visits:
Júzcar’s urban plan follows the usual pattern of
the highland villages except that here the slopes are
so diabolically steep that the traditional architecture,
which is remarkable for its irregular chimneys and roofs,
has had to avail itself of a thousand and one artifices
in its efforts to tame such extraordinary terrain, conferring
an appearance that goes beyond the merely picturesque.
The village’s most notable building is the Santa Catalina
church. It was built in the sixteenth century but later
modified. It has a single nave and a flat roof that shows
part of an ancient Mudéjar roof frame. The tower,
called the “Torrichela”, seems to have been one of the
most original monuments in the Genal valley, but it was
completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1650.
Only
some ruins remain of the once famous tin factory, including
a sober façade with pilasters and cornices that
reflects the era of its construction (eighteenth century).
In the rear, there is an arch that must have been the
entrance to a small chapel. The factory’s present external
appearance is more that of a convent structure than an
operative factory and its overgrown interior imparts an
air of decadent nineteenth century romanticism.
How
to Get There:
Whether you leave from the Costa del Sol or from Ronda
you must take the A-376 road. In the former case, get
onto this road from the AP-7 or N-340 expressway at San
Pedro de Alcántara. About ten kilometres before
getting to Ronda turn to the left onto the MA-525, and
you will arrive at Júzcar after passing through
Cartajima. If you leave from Ronda, take the aforementioned
A-376 and likewise the MA-525, which passes through Cartajima
and Júzcar.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 34 square kilometres
Population: a little over 200
What the natives are called: Juzcareños
Monuments: the Santa Catalina church and the ruins of
the Fábrica de Hojalata (tin factory)
Geographical Location: in the upper Genal region of the
Ronda highlands. The village sits at more than 620 metres
above sea level and is 22 kilometres from Ronda and 113
from the provincial capital. The area records an average
annual rainfall of more than 1,100 litres per square metre
and the average temperature is about 14º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle José Antonio,
1 (29462). Telephone: 952 183 500; Fax: 952 183 644