The
easten lands of Málaga are a never-ending source
of inspiration for artists. Poets, musicians, sculptors,
painters... they all found, in the region of the Axarquía,
the idealised paradise where they could capture their
deepest concerns. A place where mother nature runs prodigiously
wild, where the immense blue of the sea melts with purples
and ochres of the high mountains, with the mild greens
of the fields and with the sparkling whites of the villages.
A place where the countryside seems to dodge time, just
like an island lost in the middle of the insatiable ocean
of progress.
ESSENCE
OF A LANDSCAPE
One of the most fascinating features of this region is
the beauty of its sites, gleaming, overwhelming nuances,
the interior lands of the eastern Málaga strike
since the very first moment for their marked constrasts.
Just a few kilometres separate the sandy beaches from
the sheer summits. An orography that has marked its very
personal essence. Its vertiginous layout makes it unique,
different, it isolates and shelters it, it protects it
and grants it its own identity signs.
This natural enviroment, almost wild, reaches its peak
in the mountains Almijara and Tejeda. They have recently
been appointed natural parks. Life here goes on under
a very serious law of enviroment protection. This massif,
that goes up to a two thousand metres height, is an animal
and plant life sanctuary, unique in Europe. If we go downhill,
the ecosystem is much different (the human one). There
appear the firts villages, sign of a quiet and wise civilisation,
and the fields.
This area of Málaga is basically agricultural.
Olives, grapevines, almond trees, orange trees, next to
the small plantations of tomatoes, lettuces, potatoes
or carrots. The valleys appear full of banks, flourishing
terraces with fuits. A full range of plants that flood
to the coast. And by the Mediterranean Sea, the newest
and vigorous agricultural technique.
The age of the greenhouse, its implantation has been decisive,
in the last years, socially and economically.
Here it is still possible to feel the slow passing of
time. To sit on a field and take a rest. To admire the
swaying of the hills in Competa on their way to the sea,
or the shape of the stolen waters of the Guaro River within
La Viñuela reservoir, or the inclination of the
Tozones stream from the little bridge of Solares or, why
not?, the free sound of the goats grazing on the slopes
of Alfarnate. 
PEACE MADE OF LIME
This pictorial trip through the depths of the Axarquía
stops in the core of the white villages. Villages invaded
by history, by art, by the most faithful little manners...
Places where silence rises daily while the feasts show
in their most roaring way, where gastronomy is an irresistible
tradition and where property is respected as sine qua
non element of their own being.
The rute of Oil, of Wine, of raisins, or the Mudejar Route,
are short trips in space but long in time. La Axarquía
preserves its Muslim spirit almost untouched. A legacy
appearing in the narrow and perpendicular roads, in the
patios crowded with flowers, in the numerous fountains,
in the shadowy passages or in the remains of the castles,
mosques or minarets that witness the greatness of the
Al-Andalus Empire. One of the most beautiful vestiges
of this moorish past is found in Solares. The minaret
tower, of the XIII century.
Historic-Artistic National Monument, its carefully preserved
brick structure stands out among the intense whiteness
of the facings. Another outstanding particularity of Solares
is its old town, with no traffic allowed in order to keep
its essence. This redoubt of quietness appears within
and exuberant environment, the green of the slopes and
the flow of the rivers and the strems, which helps to
the consolidation of this natural paradise.
Very close to here we find Sedella. Enveloped by fertile
banks of fuit and vegetables, this precious village is
equally marked by the indelible Arabic traces. Its houses,
covered in blinding lime, the bougainvillea and the grapevines
break the monochromatism in the resplendent and brilliant
balconies. As monuments we can highlight the Casa Torreón
(Tower house), ancient palace of the Major of los Donceles.
A
bit further, Canillas de Aceituno, Arab name that means
"the olive trees". Thus it will be easy to guess
the kink of trees that surround this village, Canillas
is another good example of simplicity in habits and ways
of living. This village is witness to cruel battles during
the Reconquest. Several elements stand out in the town.
First of all, there are no squares, something unusual,
not only in this area, but also in the whole region. then,
its town hall, with a beautiful and picturesque popular
style and the Casa de los Diezmos, best known as Casa
de la Reina Mora (Moorish Queen House).
Periana, in the birth of the Guaro River, is peculiar
for its stepped little roads and for its captivating corners.
Patios and squares whitewashed witli care, coloured by
the flowerspots or by decorative dishes made of clay.
Some of these places resurrect lost traditions, such as
the ancient Lavadero (place ro wash clothes) in Periana.
This was the ancient meeting point of the neighbourhood
where the dirty clothes were washed and gossip was the
main topic. Federico García Lorca in his work "Yerma"
clearly explained the secrets of these meetings of gossip:
"In the cold stream / I wash your ribbon / just like
a hot jasmine / is your laughter".
In
the Routes that cross the Axarquía, the traveller
may find small hamlets with infinite charm, with stone
bridges over streams, with hermitages hidden among mountains
or with delicious ventas (country restaurants) where good
food comes together with legend.
Good samples of taht is the Hermitage de Santa Ana or
the venta de Alfarnate. The sanctuary, placed in the town
of Canillas de Albaida, is of the XVII century. It rises
on a breathtaking watchtower that lets us monitor the
great mountains of Almijara and Tejeda. On the other hand,
the venta is symbol of romantic banditry.
Nowadays it is and attractive restaurant-museum where
you can taste the exquisite dishes and the autochthonous
wine surrounded by all kind of devices and emblems belonging
to the bandits of the XIX century.
Some
say that it was built in the year 1690 (this is part of
the legend), and some can assure that the famous Luis
Candelas blocked here the Royal Courier, but he was arrested
and imprisoned in the cell that is still inside. These
are anuances of the castern Málaga, part of this
land named Axarquía by the Andalusís. Portions
of this Mediterrranean corner that throughout time has
been idealised and captured by artists of the whole world.
A portrait of this island of quietness, the sea of calm,
that has escaped, so tar, the implacable intentions of
the times. 