THE
REFINED GARDEN OF EDEN, TROPICAL HALL OF MALAGA, GROWS
REBELLIOUS AND JOYFUL LIKE A BURST OF LIFE. A BOURGEOIS
JUNGLE DECORATED WITH THE DISTINCTION GIVEN BY THE FOREST
PROFUSION FROM THE WARM EARTH.
Text Esteban Montero
Shortly
after leaving the asphalt jungle, when the sea is still
the prettiest thing we see at a distance, to the left
as we go towards the winding Pedrizas, our eyes find the
amazing Concepción Garden. Green miracle that traps
the visitor in a habitat traced by the leafy brush that
thrives on our climate. That tropical Málaga that
made it posible to import a varied plant constellation
and which is now, again, an Amazon synopsis of the dream
cultivated by Jorge Loring and Amalia Heredia Livermore,
over a century ago.
This couple lived in the Hacienda that still stands inside
the Botanical Garden and for years devoted themselves,
among other activities, to bringing all types of plant
and flower species that they found in the warmest corners
of the planet. The cultural interests of the couple also
turned their enormous and exuberant home into an essential
centre for artistic and literary trends of the time. Some
bronze Romanesque plaques found in El Ejido, around 1851,
were purchased by this illustrious family and were the
first pieces of their magnificent museum, of which there
are still some important samples to be seen in the heart
of the vegetation.
The
splendid gardens found in Amalia Heredia their true love;
the enthusiastic creator of a private Eden, the builder
of a bourgeois jungle that was pampered to the smallest
detail. Much later, when it passed into other hands, it
was purchased by the Málaga Town Hall, which adapted
and protected it, although it was not opened to the public
until 1994.
A primitive, wild feeling captures the senses upon entering
through the garden gate. A wide path slowly brings the
visitor into a thick oasis that seems impenetrable, conquered
only by obstinate rays of light penetrating through the
leaves and which illuminate the majesty of the scenery.
A spreading and chlorophyll ous wall franks this path,
Shade banana trees, Chinese orange blossom, shrubs with
clear patterns on their leaves or small snowy flowers
that caress one with their elusive smell decorate the
path that leads to a shiny arbour. Surrounding it, a group
of graceful palm trees watches all who cross the arched
bridge over the stream. On its thin banks live fabulous
exotic species. Further on, gigantic ficus with tubular
and serpentine roots hold on to the dark ground.
Under the dense shade, live wonderful giant birds of paradise
and fluted bamboo stalks. But if there is one thing that
makes this lavish garden unique, it is the monsterra deliciosa,
commonly called Adam's rib because of the clipped and
bizarre shape of its leaves.
On
the higher part can be found the Palace House, a calssic
building of great beauty. Before the main facade, a round
pond is invaded by red and yellow lily pads sheltering
a boy who holds a spouting fish. Three beautiful specimens
of cyca revoluta and a huge drago de Canarias watch the
silent child from their hiding place. The cyca, taken
from its home in Japan, China, Australia and the island
of Java, is one of the oldest botanical specimens (it
is said that it has been sunbathing since the Mesozoic).
A rocky stairway, embroidered with boungainvillaea and
roses, allows access to the pergola or summer ballroom:
an enveloping purple tunnel, whose metallic skeleton is
taken over by ligneous wisteria that stick to and melt
into the nostalgic structure. Today, the quiet pergola
is robbed of its noble silence whenever it is rented for
a private celebration.
The
crunching path continues tinged with raging colours. Arrogant
palm trees of different nationalities touch the clouds
while the legendary drago de Canarias observes, from its
wise old age, the soft falling of leaves. The aucarias
claim, right beside it, supremacy in height and remind
the other species that their trunks sailed the seven seas
as ship masts.
Water can be divined a bit further ahead. The cascade
of the monstera deliciosa sprouts from a prodigious living
wall made up of hundreds of leaves that constantly reach
out their branches in an attempt to take a shower. A few
metres onwards, still splashed by the rhythm of the water
and the busy arguing of the birds is the captivating corner
of the nymph. With a pitcher in her arms, she watches
her quiet reflection in the opaque pond.
The promenade of the Canary Island palm trees leads to
the charming bower. It is a small circular kiosk; a beautiful
ceramic dome impregnated of the Romantic taste of the
nineteenth century with wisteria and ivy. From this pompous
mirador, one can see the whole city of Málaga.
The path, upholstered with the descends towards the remains
of the Loringe museum. There is not much left of the old
splendour of this Doric artistic orphaned temple, but
its stones are still young, with the vanity of one who
knows itself noble.
La Concepción, rebel turbulence
endowed with aristocratic subtlety, is a secret to be
discovered, an emerald mystery that shines in the bright
eyes of Málaga.
Useful
Information.
Address: Ctra. de Las
Pedrizas (A-45), Km. 166.
29014 Málaga.
Information phones: 952 252 148 - 952
250 787
Botanical riches:
The garden has plants of some 800 tropical and subtropical
species, including 94 types of palm. 200 native species
are also represented.