The
small municipality of Macharaviaya exhibits a landscape
that is typical of the region to which it belongs but
is without remarkable contrasts in elevation, since the
terrain is composed of a succession of hills of similar
altitude. In the absence of the vineyards that disappeared
with the phylloxera pest, they are covered with pastures
occasionally mixed with olive trees.
This
is an area of pleasant geographic contours, but one that
is not without small ravines and canyons, and is the setting
for the village and its sub-district of Benaque, which
is barely three kilometres away. It is even smaller than
Macharaviaya but shares with it the same peaceful and
old-fashioned ambience, far from modern rush and bother.
Macharaviaya originated as an ancient Arabic farm community
and was founded as a royal burgh in 1572, taking the former
Arabic name of Machar Ibn Yahha (farmstead of the son
of Yahha), which is preserved today with practically the
same pronunciation. The expulsion of the Moors resulted
in the depopulation of the village, and it appears that
unlike so many other villages in the area, there was no
fully developed programme of repopulation.
The
extended period of decadence experienced by Macharaviaya
in all aspects of life, particularly relating to population,
took an unexpected turn when the Gálvez family
appeared in the little community. They provided a surprising
economic stimulus in the eighteenth century. Throughout
that century and part of the next, the village enjoyed
unaccustomed prosperity and was visited by the most influential
personalities in Málaga, who came to Macharaviaya
to establish ties with the Gálvez family.
A new church was built over the former one during this
period, the Real Fábrica de Naipes (Royal Playing
Card Factory) and an Agricultural Bank were created and
a potable water distribution system was begun. This economic
development financed by the Gálvez family was so
great that the village began to also be called the “Little
Madrid”. Although this was without doubt an exaggerated
nickname, it attests to the economic good times of the
period.
A
new period of decline began with the arrival of the phylloxera
pest, as in nearly all of La Axarquía, and the
village only began to emerge from it a few decades ago
when it became a refuge for numerous artists who chose
it as a residence, no doubt so they could devote themselves
to their creative work in complete peace and quiet. A
stable residential tourism industry has also been established
that has contributed greatly to restoring many of the
old dwellings that had fallen into disuse and disrepair.
Outstandings Visits:
It is often said that modernity has not crossed the threshold
of Macharaviaya and that it is still as it was in the
eighteenth century. While this assertion is not totally
correct-such a thing would be impossible-it does contain
much truth. The streets are still cobblestone and care
has been taken that the façades of the houses do
not display features that are out of place, therefore
the traditional architecture shows up splendidly and is
in perfect harmony with the irregular street plan.
The first thing that a traveller will notice as he enters
the village is the quadrangular two-story brick monument
which commemorates the debt of the village to its benefactors,
the Gálvez family, as stated on the stone tablet
from 1786. Inside the village the San Jacinto church attracts
attention. It was built in the eighteenth century in the
same place that the first church had been built two centuries
before, in 1505. It has a Latin cross floor plan with
a single nave that measures 36 metres long by 9 metres
wide and has a barrel vault and a graceful dome on the
transept. The sober entrance to the church, done in facing
brick and very much in the style of the era, consists
of Corinthian columns under a divided pediment, over which
appears a royal coat of arms.
Next
to the church is the cemetery, which is the location of
the entrance to the church’s crypt. These premises occupy
practically the entire underground area of the church
and house the tombs of several members of the Gálvez
family, who are represented by marble sculptures in praying
posture.
At the present time the old playing card factory is not
exactly a visually impressive piece of architecture (truth
be told, it never was) but it is an inseparable part of
this village’s history and its economic development. After
his departure for America José Gálvez opened
new commercial avenues in the New World, and thus the
Playing Card Factory of Macharaviaya reaffirmed the monopoly
that the former owner of the factory, Félix Solecio,
held on the sale of playing cards in the “Yndias” by the
terms of a contract signed in 1576. The factory produced
30,000 decks per year, which were manufactured from a
paper made in Benalmádena. (Paper manufacturing
requires a huge quantity of water, which was very abundant
in Benalmádena). Production stopped in 1815 and
the building, located at Calle Real de Málaga 15
to 23, was converted into dwellings.
In
the sub-district of Benaque, less than three kilometres
from Macharaviaya, the visitor can view the Nuestra Señora
de la Encarnación church. This is a sixteenth century
structure without garish decoration but rather with the
authentic flavour of the simplest Mudéjar style.
It was erected over a former mosque of which the minaret
remains and is used as a bell tower. It has been subjected
to a number of modifications since part of the roof collapsed
in 1930. The house of the poet Salvador Rueda, who originated
the poetic movement known as Modernism, can also be visited.
In it is displayed a notable legacy of the poet.
How
to Get There:
Go towards Motril on the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7;
N-340) and some five kilometres past the exit for Chilches
take the MA-176. This road leads directly to Macharaviaya,
although not in a straight line. .
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 7.2 square kilometres
Population: about 370
What the natives are called: Macharatungos
Monuments: the Gálvez monument, San Jacinto church,
Fábrica de Naipes (old playing card factory), and
the Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación church
(Benaque)
Geographical Location: in the La Axarquía region,
25 kilometres from Vélez Málaga and 27 from
the provincial capital. It is 240 metres above sea level,
the average rainfall in the area is 520 litres per square
metre and the average annual temperature is 17.5º
C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Real, 12 (29791).
Telephone: 952 400 042; Fax: 952 400 026