THEY
SAY THAT IT IS LAND TO DREAM OF, BUT RATHER, IT IS THE
BELOVED CITY, BECAUSE EACH VISITOR THAT DISCOVERS IT ENDS
UP AS ANOTHER ADMIRER OF ITS ETERNAL SEDUCTION, THUS IT
IS NOR SURPRISING THAT ORSON WELLES WISHED TO REST IN
THE LAND THAT HE LOVED BEST.
Ronda,
in spite of being surrounded by the cragged mountain range
that bears its name, lies on a large plateau, clearly
defining the high and low Andalusia. The city overlooks,
to the southwest, El Tajo (The Gorge), a natural gorge
excavated over the years by the river Guadalevin, reaching
180 metres in the deepest part. This cut has split Ronda
in two, but at the same time it has joined it, it has
made it unique and has also made it known worldwide as
one of the symbols of Andalusia.
This
monumental city has been coveted throughout history by
different cultures. In prehistoric times it was already
a settlement, according to the remains found in the area,
as well as cave paintings discovered in the Pileta cave,
one of the best-preserved in the world. Bust Ronda did
not become a trully Iberian city until its contact with
the Phoenicians and the Creeks, in the last millennium
before Christ.
The Celts settled later, founding Acinipo (the Old Ronda)
and Arunda (present day Ronda), although the town acquired
true importance under the Romans. Back then, it was the
best road connecting the province of Málaga with
Seville, but in turn it connected Algeciras (Cádiz)
with Málaga. Acinipo was more important back then
than Arunda, although they were often mistaken for each
other and there was a fierce competition between them.
At the end, Acinipo was abandoned and Arunda began to
write the pages of history on its own.
The most flourishing period came with the Arabs, who settled
throughout the region and shaped the current mountain
range. The urban layout of the city was the work of these
inhabitants, the main nucleus of which was the castle,
surrounded by a neighbourhood called Izna Rond Onda, which
means Castle of the Laurel. For many years, Ronda was
a unique point of Arab resistance, due to its location
and its impenetrable walls. But in May 1485, the troops
of the Catholic Monarchs, led by the Prince Don Fernando,
conquered it.
Bur Ronda has entered Spain's contemporary history as
being the seat, in January 1918, of the Andalusian Congress,
where the foundations of the autonomy of Andalusia were
laid and the symbols of the region were established such
as the flag (the green of Islam and the white of peace,
and the parliament) and its hymn, composed by the Notary
born in Casares, Blas Imfante.
Ronda and its neighbourhoods
Ronda's attractions are located in three different areas.
Outside of the walls is the San Francisco neighbourhood,
where the first inhabitans settled. The Almocabar and
the Carlos V doors in the old walled enclosure, mark the
beginning of the city, where the city's historical masterpices
are found. Suddenly, we run into the church, fortress
of the Holy Spirit that was built in the times of the
Catholic Monarchs.
From here onwards, we will see a diversity of silent witnesses
of past civilisations, such as the Santa María
La Mayor church, which in Mozarab times was a mosque.
Close by is the Town Hall building and the Mondragón
Palace, seat of governors and kings and built by King
Abomelic in 1314.
Near this is the Exijara door, which leads to the Jewish
Quarter. Towards the New Bridge we find the San Sebastian
minaret, from Ronda's Nazri period, and the Arab baths,
the best preserved of Spain, dating back to the 13th century.
Heading towards the city's greatest attraction, The Gorge
( El Tajo), we find the Felipe V door, the Arab bridge
and the Old Bridge, from where we see the Fountain of
the Eight Spouts and the Padre Jesús Church. Close
to the bridge is the Marques de Salvatierra palace and
the Moorish King's House, both buildings from the 18th
century. We then find the symbol of Ronda, the New Bridge
(Puente Nuevo), where we will be awed by the enormity
of the construction, which dates back to the 18th century.
It took 42 years to build and it sits on the foundations
of an old bridge that only stood for 5 years.
The architect, Juan Martín Aldehuela, also designed
the bullring (year 1785), on the other side of the Gorge,
in the area known as Mercadillo, which is the third part
of the city, with a more modern look. This bullring is
the largest of Spain, with 66 metres diameter, and is
owned by the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda,
the first created in Spain and founded in 1572 by Felipe
II. This ring has produced mythical bullfighters such
as Pedro Romero, in whose honour the beautiful Goyesca
bullfight is held every year.
Ronda
and its lovers.
The beauty of its landscapes and its urban areas, its
romantic spell, due to its legends and romances of Arabs
bandits and bullfighters, have made Ronda a meeting point
of travellers, artists and writers. Among these travellers
we must mention Rainer Maria Rilke, Juan Ramón
Jiménez, Hemmingway, Cernuda... If its visitors
were important, so were many who were born in Ronda, sych
as Vicente Espinel, Rios Rosas, Giner de los Rios, Pedro
Romero and el Niño de la Palma.
But if anyone passionately loved everything about Ronda,
that was Orson Welles. The great American actor and filmmaker
travelled many times to Ronda to immerse himself in the
bullfighting ambience, which he never could forget. After
Welle's death, his daugthter expressed his wish to be
buried in the land that so captivated him. In 1986, the
ashes of this American genius were deposited in the San
Cayetano property, owned by the Ordoñez family.
The truth is that anyone who visits the city will end
up falling in love with its beauty, and those who are
familiar with it, know that the more you contemplate it,
the more it attracts, because the beauty of seduction
of Ronda is eternal.
Useful
information
Basic data
Size: 477.50 Km²
Population: Approx. 40,000
Residents known as: Rondeños
Monuments: Plaza de Toros, Historic centre, the Gorge,
Ruins of Acinipo.
Geographical situation: Capital of the Ronda Mountains
region, made up of 27 municipalities, at 744 metres above
sea level.
Ronda is the capital of the Serrania (Mountain range)
comprising 27 municipalities that cover an area of 1,500
square kilometres and with a population of about 65,000,
including the almost 40,000 that live in Ronda itself.
There are various ways to get there from Malaga, the most
direct route being along the Costa del Sol to San Pedro
Alcántara, then turning up on the Ronda road, a
total distance of 110 kilometres. The well-surfaced but
winding road reaches a height of 744 metres above sea
level to take us to the town. Another road goes through
Yunquera and El Burgo, shorter at 96 kilometres from Malaga,
while the longest way is by the new Cártama road
that brings us first to Ardales, turning off before reaching
Campillos to get to Ronda, the distance being 122 kilometres.
Although longer, this is an excellent road.
Places to be visited
Ruins of Acinipo
There are a number of different routes one can take to
see the town, one good way to begin being a trip through
the Ruins of Acinipo or Ronda La Vieja (Old Ronda). Acinipo
became one of the most important towns in Bética
and Arunda, situated 20 kilometres from the present town
on the Seville road. The ruins are on a plateau of 980
metres high, and are easily spotted for the large stone
blocks and the remains of construction work on the site.
The theatre is in a good state of conservation, and its
size gives us some idea of how big this Roman city was.
Coins, inscriptions and various architectural elements
have been found in and around the site.
Urban and monumental Ronda
The town has a number of different areas, easily distinguished
one from the other. The town centre is made up of Las
Imágenes, the Puente Nuevo and the area known as
La Ciudad, or the ancient Medina, the Moorish market area.
From the historic point of view, this is the most important
area of the town. The second area is the San Francisco
barrio, and the third area is the Mercadillo, on the other
side of the river Guadalevín, where an industrial
estate has been built recently. Three bridges were built
over this river, the two oldest being in the lower part
of the river, and the third being built at the end of
the 18th century.
The Lara Museum
This museum of art and objects is situated in the Casa
Palacio de los Condes de La Conquista, (on calle Armiñán),
which has recuperated its old aristocratic style on being
converted into one of the most interesting museums in
the province. On show here are more than 2,000 pieces
from the worlds of communication, art, science, archaeology
and popular arts. There are a total of nine collections
in the museum.
Religious architecture
Ronda has a large number of religious buildings, the most
interesting being the 15th and early 16th century churches
of Nuestra Señora de Gracia and Espíritu
Santo, the building of which was ordered by the Catholic
Monarchs on the ground that the octagonal square used
by the Catholic defence forces had been. One of the oldest
of the town’s religious buildings is the Church of the
Santa María de la Encarnación la Mayor.
These are only a few of the 20 religious buildings – mostly
churches and convents – to be found in Ronda.
Church of the Espíritu Santo
Ronda was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs on May 22nd,
1485, and the Church of the Espíritu Santo was
one of the first to be built to cater for the spiritual
needs of the new Christian population, and those who would
be converted. It was named for the day on which the town
was captured, Pascua del Espíritu Santo, and built
on the ruins of an old mosque between the end of the 15th
century and the beginning of the 16th century. The style
is transitional Gothic-Renaissance. It was made a parish
in 1534, and while work was being carried out on the Colegiata
de Santa María de la Encarnación, it fulfilled
the function of the canonical college.
The church is built of stone in a single nave, with a
raised choir. The nave is divided into three sections,
each vaulted in the shape of the cross. There are rectangular
chapels off the third section of the nave, with another
chapel on the other side of the central nave, separated
by semicircular arches, the ceilings again vaulted in
the shape of the cross. A third chapel leads to the exterior.
The entrance to the main chapel is through a semicircular
triumphal arch supported by large pillars, while the ceiling
is an octagonal-shaped Baroque vault with an eight-point
star in the centre. A Baroque altarpiece sits in the wall,
along with a painting from the late 17th century Seville
School. The theme is the Holy Spirit, with the apostles
receiving the gift of speech in different languages in
order to preach the work of God all over the world. Beneath
this there is a Virgen de la Antigua, a 19th century copy.
Over the altar there are three heraldic stone shapes,
two of them from the time of Fray Bernardo Manrique (1541-1564),
then bishop, and the other showing the principal coat-of-arms
of Asturias. There are two windows in the high part of
the walls, and a door that leads to the sacristy.
The sacristy houses two important works: a Saint Joseph
with the Child Jesus and Saint Ann with the Virgin, both
done in the final third of the 17th century by painters
closely associated with the painter Murillo. The exterior
presents a fortified appearance common at the time, with
buttresses complementing the interior arches of the nave.
On both sides are the chapels in the shape of the cross,
lower than the central nave. The steeple is made in two
storeys with a bell tower, and later decorative additions
in the Baroque style.
The doorway is simple, framed in two large buttresses
with pinnacles. It has a semicircular archway with the
only elements in the church of Mudejar design on it. Over
the arch is a niche holding the dove of the Holy Spirit.
There is an arched window that is reminiscent of the Gothic
style, and the façade has a pediment on its central
part. At the moment the gold and silverwork, liturgical
costumes and documents relating the church are on exhibition
in different parts of the building.
The Bandolero Museum. This
museum is situated a late 19th century house in the historic
centre of the town, and within 150 metres of it one can
find almost all the best-known monuments in Ronda. C/Armiñán,
65. Tel: 952 877 785. 
CRAFTS: Ronda is
famous worldwide for its wrought iron, the manufacturing
of unique furniture, ceramic and leather articles.
GASTRONOMY: Among the most
typical dishes are: Ronda style omelette, yemas del tajo,
black pudding and chorizo; beans; migas with chorizo;
almond and artichoke soup; mountain style gazpacho; pork
loin filled with pine nuts; lamb cochifrito; Ronda style
rabbit, and for dessert, almond pestiños and sweets
made by the Carmelite and Franciscan nuns.
WHERE TO EAT:
Restaurante Pedro Romero. One of
Ronda’s classic restaurtants. Spacious, with a Spanish
wine cellar. C/. Virgen de la Paz, 18. Tel: 952 871 061
Fax: 952 871 061.
Restaurante Tragabuches. Creative Andalusian cooking.
C/José Aparicio, 1. 952 190 291.
Asador-Restaurante Casa Santa Pola. Specialising in meats,
roasts, suckling pig and lamb in a wood oven. C/Santo
Domingo, s/n. Tel: 952 879 208. Fax 952 879 328
Restaurante del Escudero. Paseo Blas Infante, s/n. Tel:
952 871 367.
Restaurante Sol y Sombra. C/Virgen de la Paz, 26. Tel:
952 187 176.
Restaurante Jerez. Paseo Blas Infante, 2. Tel: 952 872
098. Internet
Restaurante Duquesa de Parcent. C/Tenorio, 12. Tel: 952
190 835.
Restaurante Alhambra. C/Pedro Romero, 9. Tel: 952 879
934.
Restaurante Alavera. C/San Miguel, s/n. Tel: 952 879 143.
Restaurante Don Javier. C/Virgen de la Paz, 7. Tel: 952
872 020.
Restaurante Cervecería Camelot. C/Sevilla, 45.
Tel: 952 879 312.
Bar-Restaurante La Venta. Ctra. El Burgo, Km.4. Tel: 952
877 929.
Bar-Restaurante El Torero. C/Nueva, 8. Tel: 952 877 169.
Hnos.Pérez. Specialising in hot tapas and churros.
C/Espinillos, 14.Tel: 952 871 147.
WHERE TO SLEEP:
Hotel Husa Reina Victoria (4*).
Dr. Fleming, 25. Tel: 952 871 240.
Hotel Maestranza (4*). C/Virgen de la Paz, 24. Tel: 952
187 072.
Parador Nacional de Turismo (4*). Plaza de España,
s/n. Tel: 952 877 500.
Hotel San Gabriel. C/José María Holgado,
19. Tel: 952 190 392.
Hotel La Española (3*). C/José Aparicio
3 and 5. Tel: 952 871 051.
Hotel Don Javier (3*). C/José Aparicio, 6. Tel:
952 872 020.
Hotel Royal (2*). C/Virgen de la Paz, 42. Tel: 952 871
141.
Hotel El Horcajo (3*). Ctra. Ronda-Zahara de la Sierra,
s/n. Tel: 952 184 080.
Hotel Alavera (2*). C/San Miguel, s/n. Tel: 952 879 143.
Hostal Andalucía. Avda. Martínez Astein,
19. Teléfono 952 875 450.
Hostal Fuente de la Higuera. Partido de los Frontones.
Tel: 952 114 355.
Hostal Rondasol. C/Almendra, 11. Tel: 952 874 497.
Pensión La Purísima. C/Sevilla, 10. Tel:
952 871 050.
Camping El Sur. Ctra. Algeciras, Km.1,5. Tel: 952 875
939.
Camping El Abogao. Ctra. Campillos, Km.5. Tel: 952 875
844.
POPULAR FESTIVITIES: The
most important dates are: in April, Holy Week; on the
20th May, the May Fair; and in September, Festivities
of Pedro Romero, traditional Goyesca Bullfight.
FURTHER INFORMATION: Ronda
municipal tourism office: Paseo de Blas Infante, s/n.
Tlf: 952 187 119. Andalusian Tourism Office, Plaza de
España, 9. Tlf: 952 871 272. 