THE
"REAL MAESTRANZA DE CABALLERÍA", RONDA,
BEGGING THE PERMISSION OF THE ARENA IN BEJAR. IS THE OLDEST
BULLRING IN SPAIN. HERE, MODERN BULLFIGHTING WAS BORN.
DUE TO ITS BEAUTY AND HISTORICAL LEGACY, THIS ANCIENT
PLAZA IS ONE OF THE MOST PRECIOUS STONE TREASURES IN THE
RONDA MOUNTAINS.
"Smooth
mountains, / Ronda's bullring. / by the light of the bullfight
/ they measure their height (...) / You win, Iberian peace,
/ Ronda pure to me, / arena of light without fight, /
rose that does not die".
The poet Gerardo Diego, like many others throughout history,
was captivated by the beautiful stonework of this bullring.
This plaza is, in terms of its heritage and architecture,
one of the oldest in Spain and one of the most precious
in the entire world.
It is no accident of fate that Ronda is one of the birthplaces
of modern bullfighting, which developed there during the
18th century.
Origins
The need to defend
his territory obligen Felipe II to found, in 1572, La
Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda (Ronda College
of Horsemanship of Ronda). This body dedicated a space
in the city to equestrian exercises, among which was,
as had been traditional in Spain since the Middle Ages,
sports of skill with bulls.
One of these was "lancing bulls", in other words,
killing them with lances which is, in its primitive form,
what we now know as bullfighting. If the bull managed
to gore the horse, the attendant had to come out to draw
the bull away, using a rag to confuse the animal. One
of these helpers, centuries later, was Francisco Romero
Acevedo. He thought a different version of the sport could
be tried. There would be neither horse nor horseman. Just
the attendant and the bull, face to face. He would fight
it and kill it. He had invented bullfighting on foot.
Francisco started the first of Ronda's bullfighting dynasties.
His son, Juan de Dios, followed in his father's footsteps
and his four male offspring also earned their living with
the red cape. Among them, one stood out. Pedro, born on
19 November 1754, Juan's second son began, at a very young
age, to demonstrate outstanding qualities. He is considered
to be the inventor of modern bullfighting. He was never
wounded by a horn, despite giving the fatal thrust to
more than 5000 bulls.

The
Bullring
The increasing popularity of bullfighting
led the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda
to build its famous Plaza, a work attributed to Martín
de Aldehuela, the same architec that has built the grandiose
Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) over the Tajo in Ronda. The
building of the Plaza took six years and it was inaugurated
in 1785, with a bullfight that featured Pedro Romero y
Pepe Hillo.
Conceived in sandstone, the nobility of its architectural
shape, with its double gallery of arcades and absence
of uncovered stands, gives it more the aura of a cloister
than of a stadium built for bull shows, reminding one
of the circular patio of the famous Carlos V Palace in
Granada's Alhambra. Its 66-metres diameter is encircled
by a passage formed by two stone rings. The stands are
on two levels, with five terraced rows each and 136 columns
forming 68 arcs of Tuscan Columns, with the exception
of those of the Royal Box. Covered with a gabled roof
in Arabic tiles, no other Plaza can compare with the elegance
of its interior.
La
Goyesca
In the mounth of September, Ronda celebrates
its Fiestas de Pedro Romero. Among all the events that
take place, La Goyesca stands out. The bullfighters rush
down the passage in the same bullfighter's costumes that
Francisco de Goya painted in his works: the eighteenth
century coat, the taleguilla (trousers), the hair net...
It has a wardrobe akin to Zarzuela, on a unique afternoon,
champion of which was the other great maestro of Ronda.
Antonio Ordóñez, whose statue rightly presides
over the outskirts of the arena.
The
Bulfighting Museum
It Would be worth writing a complete chapter
on the riches it contains. Inside, one can take a trip
through bullfighting history set down in oil paintings,
engravings, illustrations, lithographs, documents, books,
costumes, equipments...
"Bullring of Ronda, / early moon that rings / the
combined marvel / of the high and low town; /moon of smooth
stone, / falls like a flower / of gold, on the stone,
the green / of the high mountains; / what will come, cruel
moon, / of your magic brightness?". The words of
Pedro Pérez Clotet. 