The
tiny municipality of Salares, nestled against the formidable
mass of the Almijara Mountains, spreads its territory
along a narrow strip that borders the province of Granada
to the north and in the south penetrates almost to the
heart of La Axarquía. If you take into account
that this small territory reaches a height of 1,658 metres
on the Cerro del Puerto peak and that only seven kilometres
south the elevation has dropped to 480 metres you will
have some idea of how broken and rugged the terrain is
within the boundaries of this municipality.
The
bare rocks that crown the highest peaks accentuate even
more the greenery in the environs of the village, near
which flow the Rivers Salares and Sedella. These two rivers
collect waters from the mountains to irrigate a number
of tremendously productive agricultural areas, and where
water is scarce, grapes make their appearance as the main
crop.
The geographic characteristics of the territory of Salares–abundant
water, favourable temperatures and excellent shelters
in case of unforeseen attacks-attracted the attention
of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians and, of course,
the Romans who coined the village’s first name: Salaria
Bastitanorum, in reference to a salt deposit that apparently
existed in this area.
Except
for a bridge that is still preserved, however, the Romans’
passage through Salares is overshadowed by the imprint
of the Arabs, who did leave important evidence, such as
the configuration of the village itself and a fortress
of which one tower still stands and under whose shelter
the village took shape.
Just as in the case of so many other villages in La Axarquía
after the fall of Vélez Málaga in 1487,
Muslim representatives from Salares went to the regional
capital to surrender to the victors. This act took place
just two days after the taking of Vélez, which
is to say 29 April 1487.
The lands of Salares, along with those of the other adjacent
villages (including Benescalera, of which today no trace
remains), were granted as feudal holdings to Don Pedro
Enríquez, the adelantado mayor (civil and military
governor) of Andalusia, and at his death they were inherited
by his widow.
The persecutions that the Moors were subjected to for
years by the Christians sowed the seeds of generalised
discontent that broke out into open rebellion in 1569.
The Moorish uprising in La Axarquía was fomented
by the chieftain Martín Alguacil and began in the
localities of Sedella, Canillas and Salares. It ended
in the famous Battle of El Peñón in Frigiliana.
When the Moors were expelled in 1571 there were 92 from
Salares among them, according to the chronicles.
In
1572, the population of Salares and the now-vanished Banescalera
totalled about 550, and there was in operation a flour-mill,
an olive oil mill, two fisheries, 20 threshing rooms,
eight lime pits and ten apiaries. Apparently a large proportion
of the villagers were engaged in silk production, which
at that time was one of the products most in fashion.
No lives were lost in the earthquake of 1884 that shook
all of La Axarquía so violently but it did cause
incalculable material damage. The royal commissioner in
charge of evaluating the damage designated about 30,000
pesetas to help the villagers rebuild their homes and
replace belongings.
Outstandings
Visits:
The village of Salares is perched on a hill and today
this situation seems more a caprice than a necessity,
but thanks to this apparent caprice the visitor can enjoy
the sight of unusual urban features that were not repeated
after the end of the Middle Ages. Short streets, some
of them very steep and others with steps, form a peculiar
street plan that is remarkable for the façades
of houses that have been whitewashed so many times and
so often that the walls imperceptibly increase in thickness
from one year to the next.
The Santa Ana parish church is the most remarkable building
in the village. It was built in the sixteenth century
in the Mudéjar style and consists of a single nave
with transept and a beam roof frame. The exterior is exceedingly
simple, its most notable feature being the entrance with
a semicircular arch over the door. Without a doubt the
most remarkable thing about the church is the minaret
from the former mosque, to which has been added a belfry
level. The tower-minaret was built of red brick between
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries and was designated
a National Historic and Artistic Monument in 1979. It
is considered one of the best examples of Almohade art
in Spain.
The Roman bridge over the River Salares, which is still
in use, has a single span and its pillars rest on rocky
knolls on either side of the stream. A number of attractive
glazed tile panels depicting the mysteries of the Way
of the Cross have been placed on some of the façades
along Calle Puente, which ends at the Roman bridge.
How
to Get There:
If coming from the Costa del Sol, take the Mediterranean
Expressway (A-7; N-340) to the Vélez Málaga
bypass, and there take the A-335 towards Alhama de Granada.
After travelling about 9 kilometres from the Vélez
Málaga bypass turn onto the MA-125 and take it
to Canillas de Aceituno. There take the MA-126 towards
Sedella, where the MA-127 begins and leads to Salares.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 10 square kilometres
Population: about 200
What the natives are called: Salareños
Monuments: the Santa Ana parish church (with Mudéjar
minaret-tower), Roman bridge over the River Salares, Albarrá
fountain, Cerro del Puerto peak
Geographical Location: in the La Axarquía region,
at the foot of the Almijara mountains and 580 metres above
sea level. It is 58 kilometres from the city of Málaga
and 28 from Vélez Málaga. The municipality
records an average rainfall of 670 litres per square metre
and the average temperature is 17º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Iglesia, 2 (29714).
Telephone: 952 508 903; Fax: 952 508 905