The
municipality of Tolox belongs to the Guadalhorce valley
region for administrative purposes but it is also geographically
linked to the Ronda highlands, especially to the Sierra
de las Nieves Natural Park. This area bestows upon this
municipality some of the most beautiful scenery, between
Puerto de los Pilones and the La Torrecilla peak (1,919
metres), to be found in the entire province of Málaga.
When it is covered with snow, as it is for only a few
weeks per year, the setting increases in beauty and is
simply spectacular.
A
little farther north, at Cañada de las Carnicerías
and on the River Los Horjacos, the mountain range exhibits
some imposing cliffs, but despite their steepness, small
pine groves seem to defy the laws of gravity by growing
on them. The terrain then begins to smooth out and olive
trees and grain fields begin to appear. These make way,
down on the banks of the River Grande, for numerous fruit
orchards and vegetable gardens.
The first human settlement in this area dates back to
the Neolithic period, judging from the remains (three
decorated ceramic vases) that have been in the Cueva de
la Tinaja (La Tinaja cave) near Peñón de
los Horcajos, some five kilometres from the modern village.
As for remains from the Roman era, a tombstone from the
grave of a child has been found and in the early twentieth
century, several inscriptions were found embedded in the
walls of the church.
The
first accounts of Tolox from the Islamic period refer
to the occupation of its ancient castle by the Muladí
chieftain Omar Ben Hafsun in the year 833. Upon his death
the fortress was inherited by one of his sons, Soleiman,
who in 921 was defeated by Abderramán III, whose
troops destroyed the castle. When the village surrendered
to the Christian troops in 1485, the fortress was rebuilt
but in 1498 it was again levelled.
This locality, along with Monda, was granted as a feudal
holding to the Marquise of Villena and Duke of Escalona
in 1509. The repressive work of the Inquisition was noted
in Tolox, and in 1560 it publicly repressed the local
mayor because the villagers were singing and dancing in
the Arabic manner during some family celebrations. After
the Morisco uprising and their expulsion, the municipal
territory was practically unpopulated until Old Christians
arrived from Castile and Galicia in the time of Felipe
II.
Outstandings
Visits:
The visitor will realise the moment he arrives in the
village that he is entering a locality with a strong Moorish
atmosphere, with narrow and irregular streets and houses
with perennially white façades against which brilliantly
coloured flowers stand out. No one should fail to tour
the Rinconada del Castillo neighbourhood, where the Arabic
touch is accentuated to the point of becoming perfectly
recognisable.
The Murallas del Castillo (Castle Walls) of Tolox, whose
construction is attributed to the Phoenicians, are the
most ancient display of architecture in this locality.
The Romans used the castle during their stay in the area,
and in the year 883 it was occupied by the rebel Omar
Ben Hafsun who rebuilt it and made it into one of his
most secure defences in the region. It had practically
disappeared by the end of the fifteenth century; only
one section of walls and a passageway are preserved from
the ancient fortress. The picturesque neighbourhood of
Rinconada del Castillo grew up around the space it had
occupied.
The
iglesia de San Miguel (San Miguel church) was completed
in the early sixteenth century, and it was in this church
that the Christians took refuge during the Morisco uprising
of 1568. After it had been set afire it was rebuilt in
1577 by the master builder of the Málaga Cathedral,
Diego de Vergara. He ordered the levelling of the walls
of the main altar, which had been greatly damaged by the
fire. In 1632 the church again had to be restored. It
consists of three naves separated by semicircular arches
that rest on quadrangular pillars.
The roof of the main altar chapel, the choir room and
the side chapels, with hemispherical vaults, are from
the seventeenth century. In the interior are three paintings
from the eighteenth century depicting the Betrothal of
the Virgin, the Epiphany and the Worship by the Shepherds,
works attributed to Diego de la Cerda. The square-based
tower is at the front of the Evangel Side nave and seems
to have been built over the minaret of the former mosque.
The Museo de Artes Populares (Museum of Popular Art) at
Calle Encina 54 (Casa de la Cultura, or House of Culture)
is a museum whose theme is nineteenth century life. There
are three large rooms on display that recreate the life
of a family: the kitchen, with old utensils; the bedroom,
with a wooden bed, an iron cradle, a jewellery box and
even a missal from 1864, and a room devoted to farm gear
and to some of the parts from the last olive oil mill
that was in operation in Tolox. We also have a display
of photographs from the fifties.
The
ermita de San Roque (hermitage of San Roque, patron saint
of the village) is three kilometres from the village.
It is a modern structure, from the 1980’s, and architecturally
very simple, but the site affords a splendid view of the
area.
The Balneario de Fuente Amargosa (Fuente Amargosa spa,
Telephone: 952487 091) makes use of a spring with curative
waters that are especially recommended for asthma and
bronchitis. Its water was declared to be for public use
in 1871 and its present hotel has a capacity of 88 people.
Lagartijo and Miguel Primo de Rivera have passed through
here, among other well-known persons.
The Casa de la Inquisición (House of the Inquisition)
and the Casa del Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor
(Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor house) are of architectural
interest. The former is from the sixteenth or early seventeenth
century and displays a brick façade framed by pilasters,
and the latter is from the sixteenth century and has a
whitewashed façade notable for its artistic grillwork.
How
to Get There:
Take the A-357 to Cártama from Málaga. About
two kilometres past that village you must turn onto the
A-355 in the direction of Coín and continue by
way of the A-366 in the direction of Alozaina. Four kilometres
short of Alozaina you will see the signs for the road
that leads to Tolox.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 95 square kilometres
Population: about 2,300
What the natives are called: Toloxeños
Monuments: the Murallas del Castillo (walls of the Castle),
San Miguel church, Casa Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares
(Popular Arts and Traditions House Museum), San Roque
hermitage, Fuente Amargosa spa, Casa de la Inquisición
(Inquisition House), Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor
house, and the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park
Geographical Location: in the Guadalhorce valley region.
The village is 315 metres above sea level, and is 52 kilometres
from Ronda and 57 from the city of Málaga. The
average precipitation in the area is 750 litres per square
metre and the average annual temperature is 17º C.
Tourist Information: Casa de la Cultura, Calle Encina
54 (29109). Telephone: 952 487 333; Fax: 952 487 108